Sewing-machine



No. 613,471. Patented Nov. l, |898. F. H. RICHARDS.

\ SEWING MACHINE. (Application led Sept. 5, 1896. Renewed Apu 13, 1898.)

(No Model.)

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No. 613,47l. Patented Nin/.1, |898. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Sept. 5, 1896. Renewed Apr. 13, 1898..' (No Model.) 4Sheets-Sheet 2.

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No. 6|3,47|. Patented Nov. l, 189s.

F. H. RICHARDS. SEWING MACHINE.

('Apialcation led Sept, 5, 1898. Renewed Apr. 18, 189B.) (No Model.) 4Sheets-Sheet 3.

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Patented Nov. l, 1898.

F. H. RICHARDS. l SEWING MACHINE. (Application #led Se-ptv, 1896.Renew-ed Apr. 13, 189B.)

4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

(No Model.)

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. duce a double seam from separate and indei UNITED STATES PATENT 'mcnFRACIS H. RICHARDS, OF HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT;

SEWING-MACHINE SPECIFICATION'forming part of Letters Patent No. 613,471,dated November 1, 189. Application led September 5, 1896. Renewed April13, 1898. Serial No. 677,521. (No model.)

To afl-Z whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANCIS H. RICHARDS, a citizen of the United States,residing at Hartford, in theV county of Hartford and State ofConnecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inSewing-Machines, of which the following is a specilication.

This invention relates to sewing-machines, the object thereof being toprovide-a machine having improved mechanism operable to propendentthreads ,by means of an improved stitch.

vide an improved sewing-machine in which the stitch-forming mechanismwill comprise a plurality of alternately-acting needle mechanismsoperative at each side, respectively, of 'a looper mechanism.

A further object of the invention is to construct a sewing-machineprovided with an improved rotatable looper having a plurality ofoppositely-disposed loop-takers, all working in the same direction andone or more continuously with each needle of a plurality of needlemechanisms.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved rotatablelooper having a plurality of oppositely-disposed alternatelyoperativeloop-takers, all workin g in the same direction and cooperating withapair of alternately-operable needles, whereby a loop formed by oneneedle from one thread will be engaged by the looper and carriedentirely around the same to permit a loop formed by the other needlefrom a separate and independent thread to be carried through the same tothereby form a stitch in which the alternating loopsof the two rows ofstitches will extend one through the other and thus form a double seamhaving the alternating stitches or loops thereof made of differentthreads, and whereby the fabric will have on one of its sides tworelatively remote rows of parallel single stitches and on its oppositeside a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed double stitchesforming loops extending crosswise of the two rows of parallel stitches,the bight of each loop engaging its companion loop intermediate of itsends.

yA further object of the invention is to provide an improvedloop-take-up mechanism cooperative with a series of alternately-oper'-ative needles and a rotatable looper.

In the drawings accompanying and formving part of this specification,Figure l is a plan view of one construction of this improved machine,parts of the bed-plate being broken away. Fig. 2 is a front viewthereof, partly broken away and showin g parts in section. Fig. 3 is anend view of the machine, looking toward the right of Fig. 2. Fig. 4 isalso an end View of the machine, looking toward the left of Fig. 2. Fig.5 is a top View of the throat-plate and bed-plate broken out A furtherobject of the invention is to prov for the purpose of more clearlyillustrating the feed mechanism. Fig. 6 is a transverse sectional viewtaken in line ad, Fig. 2. Fig. 7 is a horizontal sectional view taken inline b b, Fig. 2, and shows one means of connecting the needle-bars andtheir actuating-levers. Fig. 8 is an end View, on an enlargedscale, ofthe looper and feed mechanism, looking -toward the right of Fig. 2.VFig. 9 is a view of the same, looking toward the right of Fig. S. Fig.10 is likewise a view of the same, looking toward the left of Fig. 8.Fig. l1 is a detail of one of the looper-actuating members'or bars. Fig.12 is an end view thereof. Figs. 13 to 2l, inclusive, are a series ofdetail views illustrating the various positions of the needles andlooper andthe manner of forming-this improved seam and stitch. Fig. 22is a view of a piece of work, showing the upper side with this improveddouble seam and stitch. Fig. 23 is an under side View of the same, andFig. 24 is a transverse sectional view of the looper detached.

Similar characters designate like parts in all the figures of thedrawings.

As a preface to a description of this improved sewing-machine it will beunderstood that while it is shown adapted to form a'chainstitch it mayalso be used, if desired, to form a lock chain-stitch by employing arotatable looper adapted to carry a bobbin, and it will also beunderstood that the supporting parts and minor details of mechanism ofthis improved machine may be widely varied without departing from thescope of this invention.

This improved sewing-machine comprises in a general way needle mechanism(designated generally by A) embodying a plurality ofalternately-operable needles, looper mech- IOO anism (designated in ageneral way by B) embodying a plurality of oppositely-disposedloop-takers, all operative in the same direction, and which needlemechanism and looper mechanism combined constitute stitch-formingmechanism (designated in a general way by C) having or embodying meansfor actuating the same, feed mechanism (designated in a general way byD) likewise having o1' embodying suitable means for actuating andadjusting the same, and loop-take-up mechanism, (designated in a generalway by E.)

The framework of the machine, which may be of any suitable constructionadapted for the purpose, is herein shown, however, in its preferredform, comprising a horizontal bedplate 2, having a pair ofdownwardly-extending brackets 3 and 4, one of which, as 3, is preferablyin the nature of a chambered casing for supporting the mechanismshereinafter set forth, a removable throat-piece 5 at one end thereof, anupright support 6 at the opposite end thereof, and a horizontal support7, joined thereto, said supports forming the arm 10 of the machine,which is preferably shown as a skeleton arm, having at the outer endthereof a machine-head 11, disposed in vertical alinement with thethroatplate 5.

The needle mechanism A, which forms a part of the stitch-formin gmechanism C, in its preferred construction herein shown and described,comprises a pair of needle bars or carriers as and y, each adapted toreceive a needle, as .fr and y, which may be secured thereto in anysuitable way, such as by clamping devices or set-screws 12, and whichneedle bars or carriers are mounted for reciprocation in suitablebearings in the machine-head 11 in any desired way, herein shown,however, disposed one in front of the other and therefore side by side.The needle-bars are preferably provided at their upper ends withthread-takeup devices, herein shown as downwardly-extending arms 13 and14, having thread-receiving eyes or loops 15 and 16 at their free ends,and which thread-takeup devices may, if desired, constitute a part ofthe loop-take-up mechanism E, hereinafter described. As one means foroperating these needle-bars and thereby reciprocating the needlesalternately, which means may form, if desired, a part of the needlemechanism and therefore preferably a part of the stitch-formingmechanism, each needle-bar is connected with a cam member by means ofsuitable actuating levers. This cam member has a single annularcamgroove 21, so formed that it will accomplish the desiredreeiprocatory movements of the needles and permit one needle to be atthe highest point in its stroke while the other needle is at the lowestpoint thereof, whereby both needles have the same speed during theirascending movements as in their descending movements, thus resulting ina perfectly even stroke of each needle at all times, and which cam 20 ismounted on a driving-shaft 22, journaled at one end in the bracket 4.The shaft 22 preferably constitutes the means for impartingmotion to thefeed and looper mechanism hereinafter set forth, and is thereforejournaled in its opposite end in the casingbracket 3, and herein shownadapted to receive motion `from the usual driving-pulley 23 andhand-wheel 24, disposed ou the outer end of said shaft 22.

Each of the actuating-levers 25 and 26 consists 4of a pair of arms, as27 and 28 and 29 and 30, respectively, and one lever is disposed at eachside of the machine-arm and pivotally secured in position by pivotdevices, such as screws 31, extending through hubs 25' and 26',respectively, of said levers and entering threaded apertures in the arm.The lower end of each lever 28 and 30 is provided with an antifrictionroll or bearing 32, operative in thecam-groove 21, one at each side ofthe cam, and the outer end of each arm 27 and 29 is pivotally secured tothe needle-bars and y', for which purpose the machine-head is shown openat each side thereof.

In order that each needle-bar will have the same equal stroke and alsobe prevented from torsional movement,the needle-bars are shownixedlysecured byclampingscrews orpinsto guide-blocks 33,workin gin the machine-head, and each of which guide-blocks has a bearin gface 34 inengagement with an inner wall of said head 11, whereby torsionalmovement thereof is prevented. These blocks are provided with crank-arms35 and 36, to which the ends of the actuating-levers are pivotallysecured by means of pivotal devices or screws 39, extending throughsuitable slots in the ends of said levers, and which pivotal devices 39thereby form journals for said levers and are adapted to prevent lateralmovement thereof. These crank-arms 35 and 36 are so disposed relativelyto each other by having each project inwardly from the bearing-faces 34of said guide-blocks that the axes of the journals 39 are in alinementwith each other, thus securing an equal stroke of the needles by the useof one cam only having one camgroove.

In the structure shown the arms 2S and 30 project through suitable slots28' and 30 of the bed-plate 2, the walls of which tend to hold theantifriction-rolls 32 in engagement with the cam-groove.

Mounted within the machine-head in any desired way is the usualpresser-foot or fabricclamp. In the preferred form, however, hereinshown the head has a pair of extensions or brackets and 46, bored forthe reception of the presser-foot bar 47, which is provided with acollar 48, adj ustably secured thereon and between which and anadjusting-nut 49, carried by a threaded end of said bar, is disposedaspiral spring for giving the required pressure to the foot. By means ofthis nut 49 the tension of the spring can be regulated. The presser-footbar 47 is shown provided IOO IIO

with a transversely-extending pin 5l, adapted to'be engaged by the usuallifting-lever 52, pivotally secured to the bracket 46 and provided witha cam-face 53 for engaging said pin, whereby the presser-foot can beraised and lowered.

In order to prevent torsional movement of the presser-foot, one of thebrackets, as 46, is shown provided with a slot 54, in which Works across-pin 55, fiXedly secured to the presserfoot bar 47, whereby thepresser-foot is held from turning,as above set forth. The presserfoot56, which may be secured to the bar 47 in any well-known way, ispreferably somewhat wider, however, than the usual presserfoot ofsingle-needle machines and in its preferred form is provided with a pairof parallel slots, one for the passage of each of the two needles.

The looper mechanism B, in its preferred construction shown, comprises adish-shaped member 60, having adjacent to its periphery a plurality ofloop-takers, preferably in the nature of hooks 6l, for engaging theloops of the needle-threads and may be supported below the throat-plate5 in any desired manner for rotary movement. In the construction shown,however, this looper is peripherally supported for rotary movementintermediate of the needles, and for this purpose the casing-bracket 3,which bracket has a cylindrical chamber 59, extending from end to endthereof, having the upper part of its wall cut away, Fig. 8, to permit aclear unobstructed space at the upper part of the shuttle contiguous'tothe throat-plate is shown having its entire outer segmental end formedwith an inclined or beveled edge 63, thereby forming one member of arace or track for the looper. Removably secured to the end of thiscasing by suitable fastening devices, such as screws 64, is apartly-circular plate 65, likewise having an inclined or beveled inneredge 66, thereby constituting the other member of a race or track, andwhereby when it is in position on the casing a race or track 66',substantially V-shaped in cross-section, is formed for the peripheraltrack of the looper, which is likewise of wedge or V shape incross-section, whereby it will accurately fit into its race for rotarymovement therein. This track 66 eX- tends sufficiently far around incircular direction to properly support the looper throughout its rotarymovement and prevent lateral movement thereof.

Thelooper is provided, as above stated, with a plurality or series ofloop-takers 6l for engaging the needle-threads of the needles, and whichin the preferred form shown comprise hooks formed in the peripherythereof, and which'plurality or series of hooks comprehends in thisconstruction a pair of hooks, as m and n, disposed one at each side ofthe peripheral line of the looper, whereby they will be oppositelydisposed relatively to each other and also disposed so that" they willact in alternation with each .otherthat is to say, the hook at one sideof the peripheral line of the looper will act with the needle operatingat that side, and then the hook at the opposite side thereof will actwith the other needle of the pair of needles. In the presentconstruction these loop-takers or hooks m and n are shown diametricallyopposite to each other, whereby they are also oppositely disposedrelatively to the diameter of said looper and are formed by recesses orspaces 67 and 68, extending transversely through the looper, adjacent tothe track portion thereof, said hooks having their loop-engaging facesor points extending in opposite directions-that is to say, the hook m',formed by one recess, as 67, will have its loop-engaging face or pointadjacent to one side of the peripheral line of the looper, while itscompanion hook, as fn', formed by a similar recess, as 68, will have isloop-engaging face or point adjacent to the opposite side of theperipheral line of said looper, whereby the loop-engaging faces orpoints of said pair of hooks extend in alternately-opposite directionsrelatively to the peripheral line of the looper, both, however,projecting in the same circumferential direction, so that when thelooper is in position with one needle operating on one side of saidlooper and the other at the opposite side thereof it will be seen thatone hook will operate continuously with one needle of the pair, whilethe other hook will operate continuously with the other needle, bothhooks, however, working in the same direction.

In order that the 'loop taken by one hook and drawn out around thelooper will not have one of its side threads caught by the opposite hookwhen in position to take a loop, Fig. 14, the looper is shown provided,on each side thereof, adjacent to each hook-formative recess 67 and 68,with a projection 70, preferably conically shaped, with a curved orrounded surface. Each of these projections is so formed that the largestpart thereof projects outwardly in the same direction as its adjacenthook, whereby that side of a drawn-out loop nearest the other hook willbe spread apart and be held away from the same while it is carrying anew loop through such drawnout loop, Fig. l5. Owing to the conicalformation and curved surface of these projections the loop will slideover thesame with ease and rapidity in the rotary movement of thelooper.

It will be understood that if it is desired to form a lock chain-stitcha `looper or shuttle adapted to receive a bobbin may be used, ashereinbefore set forth. As one means for imparting rotary movement tosaid looper and which means may, if desired,`form a part of the loopermechanism, and therefore preferably a part of the stitch-formingmechanism, said looper is shown provided with a series of fourtransversely-extending apertures forming driver-sockets 7l, 72, 73, and74, disposed equidistantly apart and which may or may IOO IIO

IIS

not extend entirely through the same, according tothe width and form oflooper used, and which sockets are adapted to receive the drivershereinafter set forth.

The bracket 3, as hereinbefore stated, is shown as a casing having acylindrical chamber 59, whereby it is adapted to support parts of thefeed and looper actuating means hereinafter set forth. The driving-shaft22 is shown having a relatively large end journaled in the chamber ofthis casing for rotary movement, and which end is provided Witha seriesof longitudinal substantially T-shaped slots or grooves 76, Fig. G, forthe reception of a series of sliding drivers or driving members or bars77, corresponding in number with the driver-sockets of the looper, andhence shown as four in number. These drivers or driving members 77 areconstructed to conform tothe shape of the slots, and hence comprise,substantially, T-shaped members or bars adapted to slide in such slots,and each of which is provided at its end with a driverpin 7 8, adaptedto work in the driver-sockets, to thereby impart rotary movement to thelooper on the rotation of the shaft carrying such driving members. As ameans for sliding these drivers into and out of engagement with thedriver-sockets of the looper to thereby permit the passage of the loopsat the proper time while being drawn out around said looper each slidingbar is shown provided with a transversely-extendin g stud or pin 79,adapted to work in a cam-groove SO, formed in the interior wall of thecasing 3, and which groove is so shaped and the driver-sockets sodisposed relatively thereto that all of the driverpins 78 will at notime bein engagement with the driver-sockets of the looper, and wherebyin the present construction the pins will engage and disengage theirrespective driversockets adjacent to the horizontal axis of the looper,whereby they remain in engagement therewith while said looper is beingactuated through the lower half of its track, whereby the drawing out ofthe loops around the looper will not be impeded, as the threads of suchloops in being drawn out and taken up will pass between the ends of thedrivers and the looper while such drivers are out of theirdriver-sockets in a manner that will be readily understood withoutfurther description thereof. It will be obvious, however, that thecam-groove can be so disposed that the drivers will be caused to engageand disengage their driver-sockets at any desired point.

The feed mechanism D in this improved construction of sewing-machinecomprises in a general way a series of levers, actuatingcams, andsprings, and in the preferred form thereof herein shown and describedthe casing-bracket 3 is shown longitudinally bored at one side of itschamber 59 for the reception of a rock-shaft S5, which is journaled atone end therein and at its opposite end in a bracket 86, secured to thebed-plate of the machine.

Fixedly secured on the outer end of the' shaft for rocking movementtherewith is a crank-arm S7, extending upwardly at one side of thecasing-chamber, the outer wall of which is recessed for this purpose.

Pivotally secured to the upper end of the crank-arm S7isahorizontally-extending feed lever or bar S8, having a series ofserrations or feed-dogs 89, preferably formed integral therewith,although it is understood that such feed-dogs might be formed on a plateand removably or otherwise secured to said bar, if desired. This barextends below the usual throat-opening of the throat-plate 5 and abovethe rotatable looper, to thereby permit the feed-dogs to be in theirproper positions at the throat-opening thereof, the under side of saidbar being semicircularly recessed to permit the close proximity of thelooper to the feed-dogs. This feed-dog lever is provided with a slot forthe passage of the needles. The outer or free end of this feed-bar isheld in position to permit the same to always feed the fabric at theproper time, and for this purpose the casing is longitudinally bored, atthat side thereof opposite to the rock-shaft 85, to form ajournalbearing 91 for the reception of a second roekshaft 92. The outerend of this rock-shaft is provided with an outwardly-extendin g crankarm93, working in a recess of the casing and terminating in a bifurcatedmember or bracket 94 for the reception of the free end of said feed-barSS and in which it slides on the actuation of the rock-shaft 85, saidfeed-bar being held against displacement by a suitable spring, such as aflat spring 95, herein shown fixedly secured to the under side of thethroat-plate, whereby its free end rests on the upper side of thefeed-bar and by means of which said bar will not only be held againstdisplacement, as above set forth, but will always be returned intoinoperative position in readiness for the next feed after it has beenmoved upward to feed the fabric by the means hereinafter set forth.

In order to actuate the feed-bar and thereby its dogs, to secure theretothe required movement in an elliptical path or obtain what is usuallytermed a four-way feed for the fabric or work, suitable cam mechanism ispreferably provided and herein shown cal'- ried on the driving-shaft 22.For this purpose the rock-shaft S5 is provided with an arm 96, securedthereto and carrying an antifriction roll or bearing 97 at its free endin position to be engaged by a pair of camengaging faces 99, carried bya cam member 100, mounted on said shaft 22 for rotation therewith, andwhich cam-faces 99 will engage said roll 97 and force the same downward,Fig. S, and thus throw the feed-bar and its dogs forward to feed thework, the return or backward movement thereof being accomplished bymeans of a suitable spring, herein shown as a spiral spring l0l,mountedon the rock-shaft S5 and having one end there- IOO IIO

of fixedly secured to the casing 3 and its opposite end in engagementwith the shaft, whereby the feed-dogs will always be returned intoposition for the next feed after the disengagement of the cam-faces 99with the roll 97. In order, however, to properly clamp the feed-dogsagainst the fabric, so that the same can feed the work on the operationof the rock-shaft 85 and feed-bar 88, a second cam 102 is mounted on theshaft 22 for rotation therewith and is likewise provided with twocam-faces 103, adapted to engage an antifriction roll or bearing 104C,carried on the end of an arm 105, secured to the rock-shaft 92, wherebythe feed-dogs will be moved upward against the tension of the ilatspring .95, to thereby clamp the work, said spring 95 returning the samedownward by its action on the feed-bar after the disengagement of thecam-faces 103 with the roll 104 in a manner that will be readilyunderstood without further description thereof.

It will be understood that the dispositions of the cam-faces 99 and 103are such that the feed-dogs are preferably first moved upward to clampthe work and then forward to feed the same, although it is obvious thatsuch actions might be practically` simultaneous. From the foregoing itwill be seen that both cams are provided with the samek number ofcam-faces and that the cam-faces on each cam correspond with the numberof needles,where by there will be one feed for each needle after thesame leaves the fabric and before the other needle enters the same,andhence while both needles are out of the work.

In order to adjust the feed-dogs to thereby regulate the feed of thesame, an adjusting device is disposed in position to engage thecrank-arm 87, Aand is herein shown comprising an adjustable screw 105',vcarried ,-by a bracket 106, and which adjusting device 'is providedwith a lock-nut. 107', whereby the screw can be locked against movement.The inner end of this adjusting device engages the crank-arm 87, andwhich arm is held in engagement therewith by the action of the spring101, whereby on manipulating the screw the length of throw of thefeed-dogs will be regulated.

From the foregoing it will be seen that on the rotation of thedriving-shaft 22 the transversely-extending pins 7 9 of the sliding bars77, acting in the groove 80 of the casing,will tend to move said barsinward and outward to engage the driver-sockets of the looper, and thusrotate the same simultaneouslywith the rotation of such driving-shaftand simultaneously with the reciprocation of the needlebars. At the sametime the cammembers 100 and 102, mounted on the driving-shaft, willrotate therewith to bring their cam-faces 99 and 103 into engagementwith the antifriction-rolls of the crank-arms of the rockshafts 85 and92, and thus feed the work at the proper time.

Each, needle-thread is carried by a separate spool 205 and 206, thespool-spindles thereof, 107 and 108, being carried on the machinearm 10in the usual manner.

As a means for guiding the threads from the spools a guide device,herein shown in the nature of a bar 109, having a pair of eyes at oneend thereof, through which the threads run, is disposed on the arm 10adjacent to said spools. A similar guide device 110, having a pair ofeyes at its outer end, is likewise disposed adjacent to themachine-head.

Suitable tension devices are provided for the threads, and in thepresent construction thereof they are shown disposed at one side of thearm 10, and each preferably comprises a pair of non-rotatable clampingmembers or disks 112 and 112 and 113 and 113', respectively, disposedside by side and secured for lateral adjustment on the end of a spindle114 by a nut 115, a tension-spring 116 being interposed between thelinner disk or member ,113 and a plate 117, carried by said spindle.

An additional tension or guide device may be secured adjacent to thelower end of each ,needle-bar and y' and also adjacent to the lower endof the machine-head, if desired; but in the present construction only apair of guide eyes or loops 118 and 119 are shown in position at thepoints indicated for guiding the threads, and which eyes or loops may beformed as spirals or in any other desired way. It will be understoodthat in practice other tension means and guide devices may besubstituted for those herein shown and described, if desired. It willalso be further understood that in practice other suitable means mightbe used for rotating the looper and for actuating the needles and thatother feed mechanism might also be used, if desired.

In the operation of this improved sewingmachine, in order to form theparticular character of stitch herein set forth, motion having beenimparted to the driving-pulley from any suitable source of power,.theneedle -g/ will be caused to descend at one side of the looper, carryingwith it one of the threads, as s, through the fabric, which on theinauguration of the upward movement of the needle forms a loop whichwill be taken by one of the hooks, as n', at one side of the looper andcarried completely around the same for the purpose of having a loop fromthe opposite needle carried therethrough, said looper moving in thedirection of the arrow. After the loop has been taken by the looper andcarried partly around, however, and its needle has ascended above thefabric and while the opposite needle is descending the feed of the worktakes place. When the hook fn. has carried the loop substantiallyone-half way around the looper, Figs. 13, 14, and 15, the oppositeneedle w has completely descended and commenced its return movement,thereby forming a second loop from the thread t, which is taken by theloop-taker m' at the opposite side of thelooper, both as regards theperiph- IZO eral line thereof and also the diameter of the same, asheretofore set forth, and carried through the first loop, Figs. 1G, 17,and 18, and when such second loop has been carried partly around thelooper the feed again takes place, and when carried one-half way around,Figs. 19, 20, and 21, the first loop has been drawn out of itsloop-taker and taken up close to the under side of the fabric in themanner hereinafter set forth, while the needle y has again completelydescended and commenced its return, thereby forming the third loop ofthe series of stitches.

From the above it will be seen that there will be olle feed for eachneedle substantially immediately after a hook of the looper has engagedthe loop of that needle and while one needle is ascending and theotherdescending, both, however, being out of the work, and it will alsobe seen that the same needle coacts with the same loop-taker at one sideof the looper throughout the entire operation of the machine; that thepair of hooks act in alternation with each other, both working in thesame direction; that the hook at one side of the looper is rotated inthe present construction half-way around the same before the oppositehook engages a loop, and that each loop-taker engages a loop at eachcomplete rotation of said looper. By this improved stitch-formingmechanism a double seam is formed in which the alternatingdiagonally-disposed loops of the stitches are made of differentthreadsthat is to say, all of the diagonally-extending loops of one rowof stitches are made of one thread, while all the loops of the oppositerow of stitches are made of another thread, such loops, however,alternating with each other, whereby a chain-stitch is formed in whicheach loop of the series of loops will extend through a companion loop,or, in other words, in which the alternating loops of the two rows ofstitches will extend one through the other, whereby the fabric has onone or the upper side thereof two relatively remote rows of parallelsingle stitches and on its opposite side a series of diagonally orobliquely disposed double stitches forming loops extending crosswise ofthe two rows of parallel stitches, the bight of each loop engaging itscompanion loop substantially midway of its length, whereby the tensionof the threads is equalized throughout.

In that class of sewing-machines having only a single needle and arotatable looper the first or preceding loop is drawn up close to theunder side of the fabric by the action of the looper in drawing out thesecond or succeeding loop of the series of stitches, as the loops areformed of one continuous thread; but in this improved machine, as eachrow of stitches is composed of a different thread, it is necessary thatsome suitable loop-take-up mechanism be provided for drawing up the loopformed by one needle and drawn out by the looper while the oppositeneedle is forming its loop and having the same drawn out by said looper,and while other means might be used in practice for this purpose inplace of that herein shown the present construction of loop-take-upmechanism is, however, adapted to accomplish the purpose satisfactorily.In order, therefore, to take up the loops, the thread of one needle ispreferably in operative engagement with the needle-bar of its companionneedle, whereby the threads will be crossed intermediate their points ofengagement with such bars and the eyes of the needles-that is to say,one thread, as s, of the spool 20G passes through the eye 16 of thethread-take-up device 14 of the needlebar Qc and is then led to the eyeof the opposite needle y, while the thread from the other spool 205passes through the eye 15 of the thread-take-up device 13 of theopposite needle-bar y and is then led to the eye of the needle wherebythe loop formed by one needle will be partially drawn up on the ascentof its companion needle, the complete drawing up of such loop not beingobtained, however, by the needle-bars in the present construction ofmachine owing to the fact that each loop when drawn completely outaround the looper has a thread at each side thereof, and hence theentire length of the loop is equal to nearly twice the diameter of thelooper, whereby in order to completely draw up this length of thread bythe needlebars it would be necessary to have said bars move upward adistance substantially equal to the entire length of suclr thread minusthat portion thereof necessary to form the stitch and which would bemore or less disadvantageous in many ways. In order, therefore, toovercome this requirement and permit the needle to have a comparativelyshort stroke, such as shown in the present construction, which issufficient, for instance, to draw up a length of thread equal to aboutone-half of a completelydrawn out loop, suitable means is provided toassist the needle-bars in obtaining this result, and which means isoperable to also draw up a length of thread substantially equal toone-half of a completely-drawn-out loop minus that part thereofnecessary to form the stitch, whereby when coacting with the needle-barit will form loop-take-up mechanism sufficient to completely draw up aloop in the propermanner. This means in the present constructionlthereof consists of spring mechanism operable by the action of thelooper in drawing out the loops, and which mechanism is herein shownpreferably comprising a pair of relatively light spring members or bars125 and 126, one for each thread, and each of which is provided with aneye or loop 127 and 128, respectively, at its outer end. These bars arecarried on a spindle 129, adjustably secured at any desired place on themachine-arm 10 by means of a set-screw 130 or other suitable device, andhave their inner ends 125' and 126 secured to and coiled on said spindlepreferably with right and left hand turns, whereby IOO IIO

on the adjustment of the spindle, the outer end of which is providedwith a slot for this purpose, the tension of both spring-bars will besimultaneously increased or decreased equally. In order to regulate thepositions of said bars, suitable means is provided, preferablycomprising a downwardly-eXtendin g arm 131, disposed on the spindleintermediate the spring-coils and adjustable likewise by means of aset-screw 132 or other suitable device, whereby it can be adj usted tocorrespond with the positions of the spring-bars. This arm is providedatits lower end with a crosspin 133, onwhich the spring members or bars125 and 126 rest, whereby their downward movements are limited.

In threading the needles of the present construction of machine onethread, as s, is drawn from its spool 206 through one of the guideeyesof the guide-bar 109, thence between one pair of tension-disks,l as 112and 112', thence through one of the guide-eyes of the other guide-bar110, thence through the eye 128 of the spring-bar 126, thence throughthe eye of the thread take-up 14 of the needle-bar au', and thence tothe eye of the opposite needle y, while the other thread, as t, is drawnfrom its spool 205 through the adjacent eyes of the guide-bars 109 and110, passing intermediate the other tension-disks 113 and 113, thencethrough the eye 127 of the other spring-bar 125, thence through the eyeof the other thread take-up 13 of the needle-bar y', and thence to theeye of the needle x, whereby in the operation of the machine it will beseen that as the needle descends to form a loop from its thread t forthe looper it carries with it by means of its thread-take-up device 14the thread s, running from the needle y, which, for instance, hasalready formed its loop and which loop is being drawn out around thelooper, Figs. 2 and 14, such drawing out of the loop being accomplishedwhile the needle-bar carrying said thread s of said loop, is descending.As the entire downward stroke of the needle w, however, is only equal toabout one-h alf of a com pletely-drawn-out loo p,therefore without theuse of the spring-bars 125 and 126 there would only be sucient thread topermit the loop to be carried substantially one-quarter way aroundthe'looper on the complete downward stroke ofv the needle unlessadditional thread sufficient to form the other half of such drawn-outloop is draw-n from the spool, in which case the greater part of thethread so drawn therefrom would notbe again taken up, as the upwardstroke of the needle would only be suflicient to take up the same lengthof thread that is drawn out by the looper in the downward movement ofsaid needle. Therefore during a'portion of the downward stroke of theneedle 0o to form its. loop for the looper the spring-bar 126 coacts'therewith by the rotative movement of said looper and is drawn upsufficiently far, 2, to permit the looper to nearly completely draw outthe loop of said threadsin order to carryit around the same, and whensaid loop is nearly completely drawn out or nearly half-way around thelooper the spring-bar 126 will be substantially equal in tension tothemain tension device, and hence the further movement of the looper incompletely drawing out the loop draws sufiicient thread from the spoolto form the length of stitch without further actuating the spring-barupward. When this loop of the needle y is thus half-way around thelooper, a second loop has been received by the looper from the needleFigs. 14 and 15, said needle continuing to move upward, Figs. 17 and 18,and thus partially drawing up the previouslyformed or iirst loop of saidneedleyand which is now being carried from its drawn-out position bythelooper toward its starting-point, the spring 126 simultaneously actingwith such needle-bar :1c and returning toward its normal position,whereby the loop is completely drawn up on the under side of the fabric,as the combined movement of the needle-bar on its ascent and the returnmovement of the spring is substantially equal to the entire length ofthe thread of a completely-drawn-out loop minus that portion thereofwhich is necessary to form the stitch. As the action of the oppositeneedle-bar is similar to that just described, it will thus be seen fromthe foregoing that a descending needle-bar carries by means of itsthreadtake-up device that particular thread which is being formed into aloop for the looper and drawn out by said looper, and that when theneedle is on its return movement and ascending the looper has completelydrawn out the loop of the opposite needle and carried it half-way aroundor into the prop'er position to be drawn up, and that the spring-barscoact therewith on the downward movement of the needles to permit thelooper to properly draw out the loop and on the upward movement thereofto take up such loop. The double seam formed by this improved stitch,while adapted for various kinds of work, is particularly so for knittedwear-such as undershirts, drawers, &c.--in which a comparatively looseseam is preferred.

Having described my-invention, I claim-- 1. ln a sewing-machine, thecombination, with a looper provided with loop-takersoppositcly disposedwith relation to the peripheral line thereof and all operative in thesame direction, of means for actuating said looper; needle-bars carryingneedles, one operative on each side of the looper; and means foractuating said needle-bars.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with a rotary looper havinghooks oppositely disposed relatively tothe periphery thereof, of a pairof vertically-reciprocatory alternately-operable needle-bars carryingneedles disposed in position to operate at each side, respectively, ofsaid looper; and means for actuating said looper and needle-bars..

.3. In a sewing-machine, the combination,

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with a rotary looper having a pair of looptakers oppositely disposedwith relation to the periphery thereof and both operative in the samedirection; of a pair of needle-bars carrying needles, one operative oneach side of said looper; and actuating means for said looper and forsaid needle-bars.

-L In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanismcomprisinga looper havinga loop-taker located at each side thereof, saidloop-takers working in the same direction; alternately-operableneedle-bars carrying needles cooperating with the looper at each side ofsaid looper; and means for actuating said looper and said needle-bars.

5. The combination of feed mechanism for a sewing-1n achine, comprisinga driving-shaft carrying a pair of cams each of which has a pair ofcam-faces; a pair of rock-shafts, one in operative engagement with thecam-faces of each of said cams; a feed-bar pivotally secured at one endto one of said rock-shafts and provided with a serrated surface andhaving its opposite end in engagement with the other rock-shaft; aspring carried by one of said rock-shafts; and a spring in operativeengagement with the feed-bar, said springs being operable to release thefeed-bar from the fabric and return the same into position for the nextfeed.

G. In a sewing-machine, lthe combination of a looper having a pair ofloop-takers oppositely disposed with relation to the peripheral line ofsaid looper and one being located at each side thereof and bothoperative in the same direction; needle mechanism operative on each sideof the looper; feed mechanism; and means for actuating said looper7needle, and feed mechanisms.

7. Ina sewing-machine, the combination of framework; aperipherally-supported looper having a pair of hooks one hook disposedat each side of the peripheral line thereof and said hooks beingoperative in alternation with each other, and each having its loop-engagin g portion or point projecting in the same circumferentialdirection, whereby they are both operative in the same direction; needlemechanism feed mechanism operative on each side of the looper; and meansfor actuating said looper, needle, and feed mechanisms.

S. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with framework, of adriving-shaft journaled therein; a rotary looper having a pair of hooksone operative on each side thereof and both operative in the samedirection; means carried by said driving-shaft, for actuating thelooper; needle mechanism comprising a pair of alternately-operableneedle-bars, one operative on each side of the looper; a cam mounted onthe driving-shaft; a pair of oscillatory levers connecting said cam; andneedle-bars; feed mechanism; and means also carried by thedriving-shaft, for actuating the feedv mechanism.

0. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a driving-shaftjournaled for rotation therein; a rotatable looper having a pair ofhooks oppositely disposed relatively to the peripheral line thereof andboth operative in the same direction; means carried by saiddriving-shaft, for actuating said looper; needle mechanism comprising apair of altermately-operable needle-bars one operative on each side ofthe looper; a 4cam mounted on said driving-shaf t a pairof oscillatorylevers connecting said cam and needle-bars, for reciprocating the same;feed mechanism; and means also carried by said drivin g-shaf t, foractuating said feed mechanism.

lO. A looper' for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular member havinga pair of diametricallyoppositely disposed loop-takers one disposed ateach side of the peripheral line thereof, and both of said loop-takershaving their loop-engaging faces extending in the same circumferentialdirection,whereby when in operation they will work in the same directionto engage loops of different needlethreads.

ll. A looper for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular member having apair of loop-takers oppositely disposed relatively to the peripheralline thereof, and a conieallyshaped projection at each side of saidlooper adjacent to each loop-taker and adapted to enlarge a loop on itspassage around said looper.

12. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework embodying achambered casing having a cam-groove on its interior; a looper supportedfor rotation and having driversockets; a rotatable member journaled insaid casing and having T-shaped slots; and looper-drivers sliding insaid slots and each comprising a sliding T-shaped bar adapted to engagethe driver-sockets of the looper and having a transversely-extendingstud working in said cam-groove, whereby on the operation of saidrotatable member the drivers will be operated into position to engagethe sockets of the looper to rotate the same.

13. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a rotatable looper; a pairof alternatelyoperable needle-bars carrying needles; looptake-upmechanism comprising a threadtake-up device carried by each needle-barand each adapted to carry the thread of the opposite needle, whereby theloop formed by one needle and drawn out by the looper will be partiallydrawn up by its companion needle-bar; spring mechanism operable toassist in taking up the loops; and actuating means for said looper andneedles.

1i. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a rotatable looper; a pairof alternatelyoperable needle-bars carrying needles; looptake upmechanism comprising a threadtake-up device carried by each needle-barand each adapted to carry the thread of the opposite needle, whereby theloop formed by one needle and drawn out by the looper will be partiallydrawn up by its companion needle-bar; a pair of spring members, one

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operable with each needle-bar to assist in taking up the drawn-outloops; and actuating means for said looper andneedles.

15. Loop-take-up' mechanism for a sewingmachine, embodying as a partthereof an adj ustable spindle; a pair of independently-acting springmembers having their inner ends secured to and coiled on said spindleand provided with thread-loops at their outer ends; and an armadjustable on said spindle and having a cross-pin at its lowervend forlimiting the downward movement of said bars.

16. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a rotatable looper; a pairof alternatelyoperable needle-bars carrying needles and havingthread-take-up devices each adapted to carry the thread of the 4oppositeneedle; means operable on the actuation of said needle-bars to assistthe thread-take-up devices in taking up the loops drawn out by saidlooper; and means for actuating said looper and needle-bars.

17. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a rotatable looper havinga pair of looptakers oppositely disposed relatively to the peripheralline thereof and both operative in the same direction; a pair ofalternately-operable needle-bars carrying needles and each operativewith one of said loop-takers and at one side of said looper; means foractuating said looper and needle-bars; and loop-takeup mechanismcomprising a thread-take-up device carried by each needle-bar and eachadapted to carry the thread of the opposite needle; and means coactingwith said needlebar take-up devices, whereby the loops drawn out by thelooper will be drawn up close to the under side of the fabric to therebyform the stitch.

FRANCIS H. RICHARDS.

Witnesses:

FRED. J. DOLE, HENRY BissELL.

